If you carry guns anywhere near water long enough, you eventually face a sickening moment: the boat rocks wrong, the ATV buries a wheel in a flooded rut, or a storm turns your truck bed into a stock tank. At that point the only question that matters is simple: does your “waterproof” gun case actually keep water out, or are you about to open a rust incubator?
From hard polymer cases with O-ring seals to welded PVC dry-bag sleeves, manufacturers love the word “waterproof.” The reality is more nuanced. Some cases are built for heavy rain and mud, a few are legitimately engineered for short-term submersion, and almost none are meant for long-term underwater storage. Understanding those limits is what keeps your rifle running and your budget under control.
This is a practical, value-focused look at what “waterproof” really means on gun cases, how different designs behave when submerged, and how to respond when your case ends up underwater anyway.
Waterproof, Water-Resistant, And What Those Labels Hide
Most gun cases are marketed with vague claims like “water-resistant,” “weatherproof,” or “waterproof.” Those words are not interchangeable.
Many soft rifle bags and generic padded cases are simply water-resistant. They use nylon or polyester shells with a DWR-style coating and basic stitching. They handle a light rain on the way from the truck to the bench, but seams, zippers, and needle holes will leak under sustained wet conditions or direct spray.
Hard rifle and pistol cases take a step up. Quality designs use high-impact polypropylene shells, robust latches, and a polymer O-ring around the lid. Some of the better models even carry an IP67 rating, which comes from the same international ingress protection standards used for electronics. Case-focused guidance highlights these as dust-tight cases that can be fully submerged without water ingress under specific conditions, not indefinitely at any depth.
At the soft-case extreme are dry-bag-style gun sleeves like the ALPS Outdoorz waterproof shotgun case reviewed by Hunt Bums. That case is built from 500D welded PVC, the same class of material used in rafting dry bags, with welded seams instead of stitches and a roll-top closure instead of a zipper. In Northern California record storms and flooded rice fields, that design kept a shotgun dry through sheets of rain, standing water around the blind, and mud in truck beds. That is far beyond basic “spray resistant.”
The key point is that “waterproof” on a hang tag rarely tells you how much water, for how long, and at what depth. For underwater use, the details matter.
IP Ratings And How They Apply To Gun Cases
Ingress Protection (IP) ratings are standardized tests that describe how well a product keeps out dust and water. A Dulce Dom guide for tactical packs breaks down the code clearly: the first digit (zero to six) covers solids such as dust, and the second digit (zero to nine) covers liquids.
That same system is increasingly used for outdoor gear and can be a useful reality check on gun-case claims. A few examples stand out.
Rating example |
Water test description (per Dulce Dom) |
Typical environment |
What it implies for a gun case |
IPX4 |
Resistant to splashing water from any direction |
Commuting in rain, normal field use in showers |
Fine for rain and splashes; not designed for dunking or rivers |
IPX6 |
Withstands powerful water jets at roughly 100 liters per minute from a 0.5 inch nozzle at about 10 feet for at least 3 minutes with no harmful ingress |
Heavy rain, surf spray, forceful hose-downs |
Handles driving rain and washdowns; still not a true “submerged storage” solution |
IP67 |
Dust-tight and protected against temporary immersion up to about 3.3 feet for roughly 30 minutes |
River crossings, accidental drops in shallow water, amphibious approaches |
Designed for short, accidental submersion; performance beyond that window is unknown territory |
Some premium hard gun cases and tactical packs advertise IP67. That does not mean you can park them on the bottom of a lake for a season. It means that under controlled lab conditions they withstood about half an hour at shallow depth without water getting in.
That is a critical distinction for any shooter thinking about “underwater storage.”
Case Types: Soft, Hard, And Dry-Bag Style
Once you understand the rating language, the next real-world question is simple: how do different gun case designs actually fare when water gets serious?
Hard Polymer Cases With O-Rings
Buyer’s guides from case specialists describe high-impact polypropylene hard cases with multiple locking points and O-ring seals as the gold standard for impact protection and short submersion. Many of these airline-ready cases are explicitly dustproof and waterproof, sometimes carrying that IP67 rating.
On the inside, the best versions use custom-cut, closed-cell XLPE foam rather than generic pick-and-pluck or open-cell blocks. XLPE foam does not absorb moisture or oils, which matters if water ever does make it past the seal. Instead of acting like a sponge and holding water against your metal, it stays inert and lets the gun dry faster once you open things up.
For rifles and shotguns, long-series hard cases with integrated wheels and multiple padlock points are favored for airline travel and rough vehicle transit. For pistols, compact waterproof hard cases can house one or more handguns plus magazines. In both scenarios, the O-ring and latch design, not the shell thickness alone, determine how they behave when submerged.
Hard cases excel at impact, crushing, and keeping out dust, and they are the most trustworthy option for accidental dunks and controlled river crossings.
Their downside is bulk and weight, and they are only as waterproof as their seals stay clean and undamaged.
Soft Rifle Bags And Tactical Cases
Soft rifle bags, including many of the popular tactical drag bags and double-rifle packs reviewed by sites like Gunners Review and Top Firearm Reviews, are built around padded fabric shells. High-end versions use heavy Cordura-style fabrics, reinforced stitching, and sometimes eco-friendly waterproof coatings.
These bags protect well against scratches, bumps, and light rain, and they shine for everyday range trips where weight and convenience matter. A Savior American Classic-style double long gun bag or similar double rifle pack lets you carry rifles, pistols, ammo, and accessories in one modular package.
When it comes to underwater use, though, most soft bags are fundamentally limited by stitched seams and zippers. Even with coatings and storm flaps, the needle holes and zipper teeth are weak points. They can shed rain and survive splashes, but if you drop one into a river or leave it in standing water, water will eventually find its way inside.
Soft cases with fuzzy linings also hold on to moisture and lint. A Shotgun World user who stored a freshly oiled Browning over-under in a plush-lined case immediately saw the problem: the soft lining soaked up oil and trapped fuzz against the metal. Add humidity and time and that plush “dog bed” interior becomes a mildew and rust factory.
Soft bags are the value play for dry-to-damp conditions, not for serious submersion.
Welded PVC And Roll-Top “Dry Bag” Cases
Waterfowl hunters operate in one of the worst environments for firearms. Guns ride in the muddy bottom of boats, lean against wet blinds, and get hammered by rain, fog, and cold. That is where dry-bag-style gun cases earn their keep.
The ALPS Outdoorz waterproof gun case reviewed on Hunt Bums is a good example. Constructed from 500D welded PVC, with seams welded shut instead of stitched and a roll-top closure instead of a zipper, it is essentially a purpose-built gun dry bag. The case uses closed-cell flotation foam so that if you drop it in the marsh it floats rather than turning your shotgun into a submarine.
In field use across flooded rice fields, muddy levees, and truck beds with standing water, this case kept the shotgun completely dry. The reviewer left it standing in water by the blind while setting decoys and still pulled a dry, scratch-free gun at shooting light. That is the level of performance serious duck hunters should expect when they pay for “waterproof.”
The tradeoff is bulk and speed. A roll-top takes a few seconds longer to open than a zipper. The materials are heavier than a basic cloth sleeve. For someone who mostly shoots in good weather, that cost may not be justified. For someone who hunts in record-setting storms or runs rivers regularly, it is worth every ounce.
Where Waterproof Cases Succeed: Short Submersion And Harsh Weather
From a practical standpoint, most shooters care about two wet scenarios: constant exposure to rain, mud, and spray, and short, accidental submersion.
For continuous weather abuse, both hard O-ring-sealed cases and welded PVC dry bags hold up well. The ALPS waterproof case example shows that 500D welded PVC with a roll-top closure can keep a gun dry through days of torrential rain and repeated contact with standing water. Hard cases with intact O-rings and tight latches easily shrug off driving rain, blowing dust, and the occasional puddle in a truck bed.
Short submersion is where ratings like IP67 become relevant. In the Dulce Dom breakdown, IP67 is tested at shallow depth for roughly half an hour. That maps well to real situations such as a case falling off an ATV into a creek, sliding off a sandbar into three feet of water, or riding on the floor of a shallow-drafted boat that briefly swamps before you bail it out.
In those events, a true IP67 hard case or a well-rolled welded PVC gun bag has a very good chance of keeping the firearm dry. The flotation foam used in some waterproof soft cases, like the ALPS design, adds another margin of safety by keeping the case on the surface where you can grab it, instead of letting it sink into deep water and mud.
The key word is “short.” These designs are engineered to survive immersion events measured in minutes, not days or seasons.
Where They Fail: Long Submersion, Floods, And Underwater Storage
Long-duration submersion changes the physics. Seals creep under pressure, tiny imperfections in welds become channels, and pressure cycles and temperature swings pump water slowly past gaskets and fabric.
Flood scenarios are particularly brutal. A Cameleon Bags article discussing the aftermath of Hurricanes Harvey and Irma estimated that roughly one hundred thousand firearms and perhaps a million rounds of ammunition were exposed to floodwaters. Those waters carried not only moisture but silt, grit, and often salt or chemicals. Firearms are not designed for total immersion in that kind of soup, and cases dragged through floodwater are not either.
Even if a “waterproof” case looks intact after sitting in floodwater, the safe assumption is that contaminants have been forced into latch gaps, vents, or seam weaknesses. Cameleon Bags and the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute both make the same hard recommendation: treat submerged firearms and ammunition as compromised until proven otherwise. Firearms should be unloaded, disassembled as per the manual, rinsed if exposed to salt, soaked in appropriate water-displacing oils, thoroughly dried, and inspected by a qualified gunsmith before they are fired. Ammunition that has been fully submerged in floodwater should not be salvaged or fired; SAAMI advises disposing of it following local law-enforcement guidance.
There are also anecdotes that tempt people into overconfidence. A story on Trapshooters describes a Remington 870 lost when a boat tipped on the Little Sioux River. The owners could not find the shotgun before the river froze. They came back in spring with a long rake, eventually recovered the gun from the riverbed, cleaned and dried it thoroughly, and reported that it was “hardly hurt at all.” That speaks to the toughness of that platform and a bit of luck, not to underwater storage as a rational plan.
On the far end of the spectrum, worldbuilding discussions have asked whether rifles stored for a century in barrels of oil could still be operable. Those posts highlight how complicated true immersion storage becomes once you start worrying about seals, chemistry, and long-term stability of ammunition. The takeaway for real-world gun owners is straightforward: all serious firearm storage authorities, from UWK rust-prevention guides to safe manufacturers and gun makers, recommend dry, temperature-stable storage with controlled humidity around 50 to 55 percent, not underwater schemes.
If you are thinking about long-term underwater storage of guns in a case, you are solving the wrong problem.
The right answer is a quality safe or hard case in a controlled environment, plus dehumidification.
Moisture Inside The Case: Condensation, Foam, And Rust
A surprising amount of damage happens not because water gets in from the outside, but because moisture was trapped inside.
Vulcan Arms points out that moisture can enter a “waterproof” rifle bag three main ways. First is user error, such as not fully sealing a zipper or roll-top. Second is high ambient humidity in damp storage areas like basements, garages, and sheds. Third is condensation when warm, moist air inside the bag meets a cooler surface. That last one catches a lot of people after cold-weather hunts: the rifle and case warm up in a truck or house, moisture condenses, and then gets sealed in when you close the case.
Rust-focused resources such as UWK and Liberty Safe agree on the fundamentals. Rust is driven by water, oxygen, and often salts from corrosive primers or fingerprints. Ideal long-term storage for firearms is around 70°F with steady relative humidity roughly in the 50 to 55 percent range. That is why museums and large gun collections use dehumidifiers and desiccant systems.
When you close a damp gun into an airtight case, especially one lined with moisture-loving foam or fuzzy fabric, you create exactly the opposite of that environment. Sheepskin-lined and plush “dog bed” cases may feel luxurious, but they trap moisture. Over time the result is mildew, swelling of wood stocks, and hidden corrosion on steel surfaces.
Case maintenance guides from Explorer Cases and Dive Bomb Industries recommend simple habits that pay off. Before storing a case, wipe the exterior with a damp cloth and dry it completely. Remove any wet or dirty foam, let it air-dry separately, and avoid overpacking the case so foam does not compress and stay wet. Store cases upright in cool, dry, ventilated spaces out of direct sun, not in basements, hot attics, or damp corners. Use silica gel packs inside cases and, if possible, a room dehumidifier in the storage area. Open cases occasionally to air them out and check the condition of foam, seals, and hardware.
Foam choice matters too. The closed-cell XLPE foam used in higher-end custom inserts does not absorb moisture or oils, which reduces the tendency to hold water against your gun. Softer open-cell foam, by contrast, can soak up water, sweat, and oil and slowly feed that into metal surfaces.
The bottom line is that a waterproof shell without internal moisture control is a short-term transport solution, not a long-term storage solution.
Matching Protection Level To Your Mission And Budget
You do not need a submersion-rated hard case for every trip to the local range, and you should not rely on a bargain-bin sleeve for a week in flooded timber. Matching protection level to actual risk keeps your gear running and your costs sensible.
For dry or mildly wet environments, such as routine range trips in fair weather, a well-made soft rifle bag with padded straps and at least basic water resistance is usually sufficient. Reviews of soft bags like the Vertx VTAC or mid-range double rifle packs show they carry well, offer quick access, and protect against scratches and light rain. You still want lockable zippers and reinforced padding, but you can save weight and money by not paying for submersion capability you will never use.
For field hunting where rain, mud, and wet ground are likely but true submersion is unlikely, step up to better materials and attention to sealing. Look for rugged fabrics, quality zippers with storm flaps, and thoughtful foam padding. Add your own moisture control with silica gel, and lean on the “start dry” gun-care habits recommended by Savage Arms: clean and lightly oil metal surfaces before the hunt, carry an oiled rag in a sealed bag for quick wipe-downs, and let the firearm air-dry before it goes back into a closed case.
For waterfowl, marsh, or river hunting where the gun is constantly around water and an accidental dunk or capsized boat is on the table, roll-top welded PVC cases or truly sealed hard cases start to justify their cost and weight. The ALPS Outdoorz case discussed earlier is basically a long dry bag with flotation; in flooded rice fields and storms it kept the gun dry and floating. That is exactly what you want when your shotgun rides in the bottom of a jon boat all season. In similar environments, hard IP67-rated cases also make sense, especially if you are protecting high-dollar optics or precision rifles.
For air travel and rough vehicle transport where bags sit on wet tarmac, under dripping luggage carts, or in trailers, impact and tamper resistance are often more important than long-duration waterproofing. Airline-ready hard cases with multiple padlock points and tough shells protect against crushing and vibration. The O-ring seals give solid weatherproofing and short submersion resilience, even if the case is not billed as a dedicated “marine” product.
For long-term storage at home, the solution is not underwater at all. Use a safe or lockable cabinet in a cool, dry room. Follow the advice from UWK and similar sources: keep humidity in the sweet spot, apply a thin film of quality oil, avoid fuzzy or sheepskin-lined sleeves for long-term storage, and use dehumidifiers or desiccants as needed.
There is a recurring theme in all of this. Pay for true waterproof engineering and IP67-level protection when you actually put guns near deep or fast-moving water, or in environments where a dunked gun could end a hunt or a mission. For everything else, focus on basic weather resistance, good foam, and solid storage practices, and invest the savings in ammo and training.
Practical Response After A Dunking
Even with the right gear, mistakes and bad luck happen. When a case and gun go underwater, your response in the next few hours matters more than the logo on the lid.
The first priority, before you worry about rust or seals, is safety. Make absolutely sure every firearm is unloaded as soon as you recover the case. Only then should you open it and start assessing what got wet.
If there is any sign of water inside, treat the gun as if it has been soaked, even if only parts look damp. For fresh water, field-strip according to the owner’s manual, dry all exposed surfaces, and apply a water-displacing oil. For saltwater, follow the guidance from Cameleon Bags and other post-flood experts: rinse metal parts in fresh water to remove salts, pat them dry, then move to water-displacing oil. Wood stocks should be allowed to air-dry slowly without aggressive heat, to avoid warping and cracking.
Where ammunition is concerned, err hard on the side of caution. Light rain on a box in your truck bed is one thing; full submersion in a river or floodwater is another. The industry body SAAMI advises that ammunition which has been submerged should not be salvaged. Floodwater brings too many unknowns including duration, contaminants, and case and primer sealing. The risks of misfires, hangfires, or overpressure events far outweigh the price of replacement ammunition. Dispose of soaked ammo through law-enforcement-guided procedures.
Even after careful drying and lubrication, there is no guarantee a previously submerged firearm is perfectly safe. Experts in flood recovery recommend having any submerged firearm inspected by a qualified gunsmith before firing. Hidden rust and debris can cause malfunctions long after the exterior looks fine.
On the case side, clean out silt and debris from latches, hinges, zippers, and O-rings. Dry foam thoroughly or replace it if it smells musty or shows mold. Reapply waterproofing sprays to fabric cases as Dive Bomb Industries recommends, and inspect seals for cracks or deformation. A case compromised by floodwater is not something to trust blindly on the next trip.
Brief FAQ
Can I store a gun long-term underwater in a “waterproof” case?
From a practical, safety-first standpoint, the answer is no. IP67-rated cases are tested for roughly half an hour at shallow depth, not for months or years underwater. Flood-recovery experts, rust-prevention guides, and safe manufacturers all point toward dry, humidity-controlled storage as the correct long-term approach. Underwater storage multiplies the ways things can go wrong and complicates inspection and maintenance.
If my IP67 hard case falls in a river and I pull it out quickly, is my gun safe?
If the case is in good condition, the latches are closed, and you retrieve it within minutes, an IP67 hard case or well-rolled welded PVC gun bag is designed for exactly that scenario. That does not mean you ignore it afterward. Open the case in a dry place, inspect for any moisture, and wipe down the firearm even if it appears dry. Add fresh desiccant before closing it again. Treat any unusual behavior or visible moisture as a reason to clean the gun more thoroughly.
Are welded PVC roll-top gun cases as trustworthy as hard cases for underwater use?
They are different tools with different strengths. Welded PVC dry-bag-style gun cases, like the ALPS design tested in harsh waterfowl conditions, excel at keeping out rain and spray and at floating if dropped in the marsh. Their seams and roll-top closures are comparable in concept to dry bags used in rafting. Hard IP67 cases offer more predictable performance in standardized tests and much better impact protection, but they are bulkier and heavier. For shallow marshes and flooded fields, a welded PVC case that floats may be ideal. For deeper rivers, airline travel, or mixed-impact threats, a true hard case is often the safer bet.
How do I keep moisture from building up inside a waterproof case?
Start with a dry firearm. Follow the advice from Savage Arms and similar sources by cleaning and lightly oiling metal surfaces before you head out, and wiping the gun down as soon as you come back from wet conditions. Let guns acclimate when coming from cold field conditions into a warm vehicle or house so condensation forms where you can wipe it, not inside a sealed case. Use silica gel packs inside the case, store the case itself in a cool, dry, ventilated room as Explorer Cases recommends, and periodically open everything up to air out. Avoid plush, moisture-holding linings for long-term storage, and consider closed-cell XLPE foam if you are building a custom layout.
A waterproof gun case is a tool, not a magic force field.
Understand its engineering, respect its limits, and pair it with disciplined maintenance, and it will keep your rifles and shotguns working instead of rusting. Treat “waterproof” as a starting point instead of a guarantee, and you will make smarter, more cost-effective gear decisions that hold up when the water gets real.
References
- https://www.academia.edu/17629057/Designing_and_production_of_Waterproof_Breathable_Fabric_Suitable_for_Sleeping_Bags
- https://scholarsmine.mst.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=3299&context=civarc_enveng_facwork
- https://caseandfoam.in/secure-gun-cases-for-rifles-pistols-a-buyers-guide/
- https://www.ebay.com/itm/389084172958
- https://explorercases-usa.com/how-to-store-gun-cases/
- https://gunnersreview.com/best-rifle-bags/
- https://huntbums.com/alps-outdoorz-waterproof-gun-case-review-a-waterfowl-hunters-perspective/
- https://www.thearmorylife.com/alps-outdoorz-waterproof-rifle-case-review/
- https://www.topfirearmreviews.com/post/best-rifle-bag
- https://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/water-tight-gun-cases-caution.4114927/
